Dressing french classics in a whole new look

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Here’s what The Garment restaurant is cooking before introducing molecular gastronomy to its menu.

By Lucie Barke

IMG_0582After studying at Le Cordon Bleu in Sydney and in Bangkok, and working at La Normandie restaurant in Bangkok, chef Kittichet Thirapongpattana (aka Eiam) and two others chefs opened the doors of their restaurant, The Garment (311/1 Soi Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra 24, New Sathorn Road, Chongnonsi, Yannawa, Bangkok, 02 674 2128, www.thegarmentrestaurant.com), on February 9.

It was truly an honor to taste their cuisine and to meet Eiam, a young, talented and passionate chef. All of the dishes presented were not only beautifully and interestingly plated, but they also demonstrated the finesse of the grandest gastronomic establishments. His modern cuisine, inspired by French classics, is very well executed and the ingredients are cooked to perfection.

The balance of textures and flavors of the chaud-froid of roudie, duck foie gras, seaweed skin, and grape sauce is surprising. On one side of the plate a foie gras in terrine form, fresh and well seasoned; on the other, a fresh pan-fried foie gras, lightly invigorated by the sugar of the grape sauce.

IMG_0523When in France, you have to eat duck. And when in Bangkok, The Garment’s delightful roasted duck breast, chocolate ganache, chestnut, and mandarin napoleon pan jus will take away the craving. The bitterness of that chocolate ganache and the moist duck meat marry perfectly, while the combination melts in the mouth. This dish is accompanied by a garden of little crunchy vegetables on a bed of puree; the presentation, in Chef Heston Blumenthal’s style.

Next came the roasted Murraylands premium lamb saddle in pepper crust, and confit lamb loin. Not salivating yet? The name is as attractive as the dish where, once again, the meat was perfectly cooked and the seasoning well balanced.

And what to say about the dessert … it was as delicious as unique. The Walk in the Forest—dehydrated chocolate mousse, roasted sand flour, short bread mushroom, and hay ice cream—is a pleasant gastronomic surprise. All your senses will awaken as you recognize the taste of the dehydrated mousse, but not the texture.

Wine is tastefully conserved in a cellar that is visible to clients, while whiskey lovers can choose from 11 varieties proposed on the drinks list.

It certainly adds value that chef Eiam works only with fresh produce, and his menu will change seasonally. He also promised us that molecular gastronomy will soon be making an appearance on The Garment’s menu. Stay hungry!

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