Signor Sassi, the latest among the city’s sky-high dining venues brings Italian food straight from London to Bangkok.
By John Howe.
Dusk was just falling as I walked into Signor Sassi Restaurant, its wall of glass giving mesmeric views over the twilight hues of nighttime Bangkok. Perched 37 floors above bustling, busy Bangkok, Signor Sassi is the latest of Bangkok’s sky-high dining venues.
It is not just the location that is sky-high. The cuisine is stratospheric too, with a large wine list and an extensive menu of authentic Italian fare supervised by executive chef Filippo Pagani, who hails from a long line of Sicilian chefs. Italian cuisine is coursing through Filippo’s veins and it shows in the delicious dishes he prepared for us, all fit for a king.
My starter was a wild boar carpaccio, with a piquant lemon dressed rocket salad emboldened with a smattering of Italian black salt. A nice gamey starter, the finely sliced wild boar was delicately flavored with a touch of grassy earthiness. The salt elevated the lemon dressing to rarefied heights of haute cuisine.
My companion had a cod pate. The familiar flavor of cod mingled with a creamy base that brought the North Sea to Bangkok. This dish proved that Chef Filippo had a discussion with the food.
Next came taglionlini with black truffle and bacon in creamy sauce. This dish is treasure to be discovered. As soon as it was set on the table, the earthy perfume of the truffle assailed my olfactory nerves stimulating them into a frenzy of excitement. This dish was not just the result of a discussion but of a full question and answer (Q&A) session on what food should be; and I am pleased to say that I was part of the Q&A. The taglionlini played second fiddle to the truffle but what a second fiddle it was: smooth and perfectly cooked.
Then, the piece de resistance: rack of Australian lamb cooked on a plinth of hay in red wine reduction and aromatic herbs, served with a sidedish of creamy mashed potatoes garnished with black truffle. A seared crunchy carapace sealed the lamb’s flavors, which were heightened by the atoll of hey.
When I cut through the crisp exterior, it revealed a delightfully pink inner that captivated my eye and stimulated my taste buds. The knife sliced through the meat with ease; it offered no resistance. When I lifted the morsel to my mouth, I felt my salivary glands calling out to the meat, it’s as if they wanted to make an acquaintance with this once gamboling ball of wool. I could swear that the lamb was so fresh; it tasted of the meadow grass and wild flowers that had fed the animal.
To end my meal, a panna cotta was just perfect. It was so ligth and creamy it nearly floated off the plate. My companion had pere al Chianti (grilled pear in a Chianti jus with vanilla ice cream). Again, I sampled both and can say that the pear, the Chianti, and the ice cream provided a perfect “good night” to a perfect meal.
I will certainly return to Signor Sassi. In fact, I have already recommended it to my friends.
Signor Sassi Italian Restaurant
37th floor, Anantara Bangkok Sathorn
Sathorn 36, Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Road
For business people, Signor Sassi has a business lunch Monday to Friday, call the restaurant for details.